In December ’24 Nigel Stevens started putting out a few feelers to see what interest there might be if he were to ‘mastermind’ a little outing to somewhere in the Massif Central this summer. Of course, there was a lot of interest! So based on that he did a little bit of prep, found a hotel and some dates and threw the idea out to EKAM members. The response was huge.
The simple plan was this. Those going would make their individual bookings at the chosen hotel for 4 nights from Monday 21st July and leave Friday 25thJuly. Nigel would have some routes in place for people to use once we were all there but the ‘how to get there and back’ arrangements were entirely the choice of the individuals attending.
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Most going were EKAM members with a few ex-EKAM and other friends. Those attending joined us from all over and as far afield as Canada and Sweden. Some were already touring in Europe, those coming from Blighty left on different days - Friday, Saturday, Sunday and, because of work commitments, one man even came in a van with bike in the back on the Monday (great effort Brian!). Phil Hart organised a discount block booking on the ferry for one large group who, once across the water, split up and took various routes south. I, along with Nigel and a small group, were on the 07:24 Shuttle on Saturday morning – that group lasted no longer than the queue for the Shuttle, split onto two trains and separated. Despite taking different routes we still managed to meet up at the same campsite on the Saturday evening. (“WhatsApp” is a great tool). |
The vagaries of getting there were part and parcel of the whole adventure, and amusement resulted from occasional unscheduled meetings with others on the way. (Purely by chance we met the ‘Friday’ team near Chateau Chinnon, south of Auxerre, simply because we all chose the same point to stop and don waterproofs).
For accommodation on route some of us camped (5 bikes and tents on a €40 pitch is quite economic) whilst others went for budget hotels – both options were readily available with plenty of choices. Even so, on one night, one of our ‘non-camping’ number still found the opportunity to book themselves, completely by chance, into the same hotel as ‘that’ Friday group……. The joys of synchronicity, eh?
overnight stop!
Routes varied for everyone, basically from Calais and down either the left side or right side of Paris, with multiple permutations there-on. The weather was mixed, but the riding included some fabulous roads and well worth taking 3 days to stay off those ‘boring if faster’ routes. And the last stretch to Florac Trois Rivières on the Monday really began to give a feel for why we had come so far.
We arrived on Monday afternoon in bright sunshine at the Grand Hôtel du Parc to find a reserved covered bike park which most arrivals squeezed into (there were over 30 bikes), a swimming pool, and the facilities of the town centre simply yards away. A perfect location.
Because of uncertain arrival times we hadn’t booked to eat as a group at the hotel on Monday evening so Nigel and I found a small café in the town square to get something light to eat. Inevitably so did a large number of the rest of our party and a quiet snack soon became a very lively evening…….
The following morning, in small groups, most of us headed for the Tarn Gorge and a route which would take us to the Millau Viaduct. No ‘tourist’ can come here without going to see it. The groups riding together were loosely formed and arrived in various numbers. Indeed, after Millau two of us spent the afternoon buddied up riding a mountain route. The Chief Observer went solo and other sized groups were also formed. My thanks to Adrian Went for keeping me honest as he seamlessly negotiated some seriously ‘technical’ stuff on his ageing R80 whilst making it look easy. Challenging mountain roads but with the most fantastic scenery.
(When one could spare the time to look that is - stopping is generally advisable when you want to do this!). We had a great time.
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The Millau Bridge is a magnificent structure, a true feat of engineering that manages to achieve it’s functional objectives and look absolutely ‘right’. It is a magnificent aesthetic as well a practical success.  |
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.....there are other, older, viaducts in the area as well. |
Wednesday’s weather forecast included an afternoon of storms so most of us ran a morning route in small groups and then back to Florac to take cover for the afternoon. Many of us could be found assembled in the town square that afternoon sampling the local fare…. But hats off to Paul Haffenden who had been riding with ‘our’ small group that morning but who, having been told that Nigel would buy a beer for anyone who completed the full route that day, decided he wanted that beer….. And he even made it back to the hotel in time for dinner after he had completed it!
Thursday involved another fabulous ride but with two larger groups creating something of a ‘club ride’ (or rides) vibe. Henry Treadwell led the dozen or so strong group I joined and the roads were just perfect to ride. It was a great day and the evening meal that night was very noisy with the mixed emotions that resulted from having enjoyed three great days but knowing that our time there was at an end.
I could say more about the routes and the scenery etc etc but perhaps I’ll just let these few images below give the flavour.
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Routes home on the Friday were as varied, if not more so, than on the route down. Some were even looking at coming back via the Black Forest. Brian Davison was blasting back on the péage in his van (great till he got his péage bill!) as were some on their bikes. I had to be back by Saturday night but didn’t fancy motorways and managed a route to Calais involving just a few miles of dual carriageway on the whole route – two days of what I would have said were great roads if I hadn’t been so spoilt in the Cévennes ……. Reality bit as I left the Shuttle mind!
The general consensus was that the whole trip had been absolutely fabulous. A holiday but one which I, and I suspect others, learnt just a few things. A trip where I met people I didn’t really know before and with whom I have now found some new friends. A visit to a part of France I’ve been to in the past and now realise I’d hardly scratched the surface before.
Although this wasn’t an EKAM event as such, the majority who came were EKAM members. I thought it reflected so well on everyone that the whole thing simply ‘happened’ with minimum fuss and the complete absence of dramas.
A huge thank you to Nigel. Firstly for dreaming up the concept, then for organising it and so generously sharing his knowledge and experience with the rest of us and, finally, for having the confidence in those of us attending to just let us get on with it and let it work. It did – perfectly.
Perhaps we can do it all again next year..........
